The story begins in a pleasant little shoreline town near New Haven, Connecticut. Bob and Margaret begat Mark Shepard in 1950, Elizabeth Emerson in 1954, and Paul Stuart in 1961. Looking back, the early years were about as sweet as they come; our suburban neighborhood was filled with families with their own three kids, plenty of woods and brooks and caves in which to play, and a school playground across the street that put all three of us extremely high on the list of "Desired Friends to Go Home With After School." 

Growing up I always thought I'd become an actor, but a year at Emerson College, where everyone always thought they'd become an actor, made me realize I didn't have the chutzpah needed to make it in the industry. The food and hospitality world beckoned, and over the next fifteen years - aside from a brief stint in a bellhop outfit delivering singing telegrams in Santa Cruz - working as a waitress allowed me to work hard all summer and travel all winter. Determined to lose my preppie roots and become a hippie, I traversed the USA with friends in a VW bus, stopping along the way in towns that intrigued us - Key West, New Orleans, Santa Cruz…always Santa Cruz.

 

Yes, that's me on the right with the 'fro. But I never did achieve the hippie goal; preppy roots run deep, I'm afraid…

In the early 80s I married and settled down in Connecticut, where I managed several restaurants (one of which received a swell review in the New York Times food section, a stellar moment in my restaurant career) before my love of cooking and entertaining drew me to the kitchen and my true calling as a chef and caterer. A gal named Martha had just opened up shop down the coast a bit and it was an exciting time to be in the food world.  

However, one amicable divorce and two close friends' passings later, I needed a change. In 1989, I moved back to Santa Cruz and dove into the catering scene there. All was well, until I found myself about to hit 40, tired of working fourteen-hour days, and wondering, "What's next?" Little did I know that saying that out loud would lead to an introduction to Joan Summers, the owner and creator of La Casa de Espíritus Alegres Bed & Breakfast in Guanajuato, Mexico. I was looking for an adventure, Joan was looking for an inn-sitter, and thanks to a mutual friend with a bright idea (Thanks, Jane!), my life took a turn south of the border.

My first-ever visit to Mexico was in December 1994. My Spanish was limited to the days of the week, numbers from one to ten, and phrases like "Please put the carrots in the large cold room." All very useful in the catering kitchen, but a little out of place in a house with seven bedrooms, nine bathrooms, and no big cold room in which to put the carrots. I spent a week learning the ropes with Joan before she left for India, a training that more often than not meant laughing, eating, and knowing ripe papaya when I saw one. It wasn't until she was pulling out of the driveway that I thought to ask, "Shoot, how do you say 'guest'?" Luckily, I have a knack for charades, I had a great Spanish dictionary, and the staff was extremely good-natured. Oh, and all the guests spoke English!

The inn-keeping job was a perfect fit for my talents: playing hostess and fairy godmother to a brood of ever-changing faces from all over the globe, bringing order to chaos, creating the recipes for the breakfasts and dinners for which we became renowned.

The six week inn-sitting job very quickly became a full time job and Mexico became my new home.

I realize now that the seeds of My Mexico Tours were being sown way back then, as I began to see Mexico through Joan's eyes. The B&B was filled with folk art from every corner of the country, and her passion for the art and the relationship with the artisans was contagious. Every year we'd take a road trip together to some village or another in search of folk art.  I will never forget pulling into a dusty village of look-alike cinderblock houses in search of a potter she'd met years before, a town that anyone in their right mind would have driven straight through as quickly as possible. After knocking on a million doors and traipsing through numerous homes and backyards filled with sleeping pigs and tethered goats we came to an open-air workshop where the entire family was working away on a colorful collection of ceramic chickens in various stages of completion. There, in the midst of the menagerie, was the son of the potter she knew. He had passed away, but the son remembered her and clearly was moved by the respect she held for his father's work. They hugged, I teared up, and we ordered a gazillion of whatever they were making.

 

That night back at the B&B I wrote in my journal "You could come to Mexico for twenty years and never see what I saw today, thanks to Joan." 

 

Working with Joan was a dream, and by 1997 La Casa de Espíritus Alegres was featured in numerous magazine and newspaper articles and  was named one of the "Best Inns of Mexico" in Fodor's and chosen by Frommer's as one of the "Most Unique Inns of Mexico." Luckily, Joan lived to see that happen before she succumbed to cancer in 1998 at the age of 64. I've kept in touch with many of the wonderful people who stayed at La Casa over the years, in fact many of them travel with me now, and the altar I create for Joan every year for Day of the Dead gives me a chance to relive all those rollicking good times we all had at the House of Happy Spirits. 

I managed the B&B for five more years after Joan’s death, and with the help of some wonderful people it continued to flourish.

After eight exciting and challenging years, I left the B&B in the fall of 2002 and was asked to work with Bon Appétit on their Special Travel Issue for 2003 on Mexico. I traveled across Mexico with them for several weeks working on a feature article (18 photo shoots in 23 days!) and Lunch at the Hacienda, featuring my recipes, was shot at the home of my wonderful neighbors' Rosendo & Carline. In May of 2003 their fabulous house and my Pork Tenderloin with Orange Chipotle Sauce graced the cover of Bon Appétit, The Soul of Mexico.

After many months traveling across Mexico with Bon Appetit and with friends, meeting cooks, artists, hotel owners, and warm, friendly people everywhere I went, it became very clear that all the while I was laying the groundwork for my next project: a tour business in which I could share - as Joan had with me - the people, places, folk art, and flavors of Mexico I had come to love.
                                                                                                                                       
I returned to Santa Cruz in 2003 to launch My Mexico Tours, but before I’d even gotten started another opportunity came my way. Melba Levick, a photographer whom I met when she was shooting the B&B for Mexicasa, invited me to do the text for a new book she had in mind on Mexican kitchens. After about three minutes of serious consideration,

 I accepted. For the next three years, I dovetailed my research for the book with my tours and wrote like mad when I was home. Mexicocina: The Spirit and Style of the Mexican Kitchen was released in September 2006 and I couldn't be prouder. 

MY MEXICO TOURS has been growing since my first folk art trip to Pátzcuaro in the fall of 2003. Since then I've introduced numerous intrepid travelers to the villages, ruins, and textiles of Chiapas; elegant colonial cities of Puebla and Tlaxcala; the folk art of and fabulous cuisine of Oaxaca and Pátzcuaro, crumbling Maya ruins and thriving Maya culture in Yucatán; recipes and regional specialties shared with us in humble huts and palatial homes; and, of course, my favorite haunts in my beloved Guanajuato. We've hiked in jungles, boated through the floating gardens of Xochimilco in Mexico City, painted in the courtyards of convents and private estates, scaled ruins, spent the night in three hundred-year old haciendas and cemeteries glowing with candlelight, and tasted the best blue-corn quesadillas in the world. Not all of Mexico, but my Mexico. Artisans, cooks, and characters. Out of the way places and undiscovered restaurants. Boat rides and mariachi music. Drag queens, chefs, and shamans. Wacky beautiful fiestas and deeply moving traditions. It's a great job.

 

 When I'm not on the road with a tour or researching a new adventure, I'm in Santa Cruz. Home is a big old farmhouse on an organic apple orchard in Happy Valley I share with a friend and her four-year old son. Living in the country is sweet, and living with friends, especially a child, is working out great. I still sometimes feel like a foreigner here after all those years in Mexico, but I like it just fine. I do a radio show at the college station here in Santa Cruz (log on to kzsc.org the first Sunday of the month, 9am to 12noon and you might just find me spinning the tunes) which brings me great pleasure, and I'm still catching up for lost time with friends and family all over the country.

Life is good, never boring, and it feels pretty darned good  to say, "I live in Happy Valley."

 

 



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